All the power of the positive energy of the sun is collected in a fruit much sought after in perfumery: the bergamot. This citrus fruit is to Guerlain, the signature of an entire collection, Aqua Allegoria, Eaux Fraîches appeared for the first time in the portfolio of the brand in 1999. Fil rouge of the whole family of fragrances is this small but precious fruit, also known as the green gold of Calabria.
“The bergamot you can combine so many ingredients and is the foundation in our vocabulary and our grammar is on the nose,” says Thierry Wasser, one of the main noses of the maison Guerlain. “In perfumery, we have no real rules, it all depends on the method of trial & error. In the creation of a fragrance it goes on up to reach the right balance by starting with an initial idea. The combinations are endless: creativity has no limits”.
The ingredient is the protagonist of the fragrances are more fresh in the maison of perfume the French is cultivated with the utmost attention and care by an entrepreneur of reggio calabria, Gianfranco Capua, of Capua in 1880, a partner company of Guerlain known for the production of the essential oil of bergamot. “We work with the bergamot for four generations, and for Guerlain, we wish to not only ensure the fragrance according to its standard, but also the security, a commitment that we will respect 20 years,” said Capua.
The “Garden of Guerlain” in the province of Reggio Calabria, which also includes a didactic section, extends over 52 properties, 10 acres already planted and that they continue to be planted, a sweet corner that accommodates this citrus fruit from different varieties. “The harvest is carried out from November to February, and every period corresponds to a result in itself, because the maturity of bergamot change. Is the average size at the end of November, smaller than the lemon, but green, with oil from the notes are sour because it is younger. Between December and January, the fruit becomes yellow and more mature, then in February all-yellow and the oil changes and takes on a fragrance more rich, round and ripe. From each harvest we are able to produce between 120 or 140 tons of essential oil”.
“The extraction follows various procedures invented by us to get both the juice and the volatile substance of bergamot, that is, the odor given off from the juice, which we keep in the alcohol with a cold process. The bergamot, in fact, we use the smell: not only the oil that comes from the skin but also the one coming from the fruit, its juice”.
The SMELL OF HAPPINESS
“For the new creations post covid we wanted healthy ingredients linked to nature, because now we very much need in the world in which we live is still the need to decide what is good for the body and soul. A good perfume should be like a smoothie for the skin. A fragrance can give the gift of refreshment and re-establish the connection with the nature, that there is failure in the long during the lockdown,” he clarified the creator of fragrances Delphine Jelk, she has worked with Thierry Wasser about the last-born, Orange Soleia.
“This season we wanted to work with ingredients that they feel good, like orange and pomegranate, we wanted a fragrance sparkling and energizing that would put in a good mood and make you smile, that’s why we have focused on Orange Soleia, that captures the aroma of a sweet orange but a blood of Sicily. Has the smell of happiness, a little more sour of the sweet oranges, and combined with the raspberry and fresh mint, and the woods, to enhance persistence has found a harmony, the effect is almost soothing. In the construction of the Aqua there are also pink berries and bergamot, the essential because the fragrance acquires that power for good, on a background of woody notes and tonka bean”.
“The well-being that a scent can inspire us noses, we learn from the aromacologia, there are scientific benefits linked to the odours and it is well known that plants help us to feel good, it also smells give a motivation, reduce stress, anxiety, increasing happiness and the ability to be more aware on this Earth”.
In the gallery the fragrances of the collection, Aqua Allegoria by Guerlain.